Wednesday, August 17, 2011

ZANZIBa(aaaaaahhhh)r

ZANZIBAR, Tanzania

We're here on Zanzibar Island - we can hardly believe it. We are in love with this place! Off the 2-hr ferry from Dar es Salaam to here - rich in history and culture, beautiful place, blue-green water, and fast moving taxis. We spent our first couple nights in Stone Town - very very cool place. Tall/skinny alleyways that you could - and wanted to - get totally lost in. Ramadan now, so barely any restaurants open during the day. BUT the city park after sunset is filled with food vendors selling DELIcious food.




We went on an all-day Spice tour – one of the best tours I’ve ever been on. We walked around communal agricultural plots, learned about dozens of plants and spices, sampled a variety of spices, flowers, and vegetables, sat down to taste several spices in local cuisine (communal lunch), tasted 10 varieties of fruits, swam in the sea, and visited ruins (baths and a slave cave). At night, there was a huge food/fish bazaar – buy a stick of BBQ lobster, squid, octopus, snapper, whatever you want and naan, samosas, ‘zanzibar pizza’ (favorite is banana nutella with chocolate –OMG) and wash it down with fresh cane juice with ginger and lime. Holy bajole.





We hired a car for a few days and took off south and east to check out Jozani forest (and monkeys) and find a sailboat to take us snorkeling and relax on the beach. The east side was pretty cool – although during low tide you’d have to walk 5-minutes+ out to get into knee-high water. Tide pools were awesome and local fisherfolk were working hard. We found a fishing village and hired a dhow sailboat to take us all-day snorkeling, BBQ lobster lunch on a secluded beach. Sick, really. How can a place be this incredible?




Back to Stone Town to work – we found our ‘office’ (a bar with free internet) and camped out there for hours while working on classes. (It seems criminal though to look out on such blue water and be working…uughh). We went north for a couple days to this really nice beach in Kendwa. Kendwa is by far the best swimming beach with consistent level of water to swim. Incredible colors, sand like flour - we were in heaven. If you ever come to Zanzibar, do exactly what we did (minus the work, of course) - this is a place you must see. We loved it.



Useful phrases:

Mambo (Mambo is Zanzibar, Jambo is Swahili): Hello
Poa: Good, cool
Caribou: Welcome/come in
Asante (sana): Thank you (very much)
Harari: How are you
Snorkel = snorkel

Kristi: “Mamboooo”
Street vendor: “Mambo. Poa… Caribou”
Kristi: “poa, poa…Asante sana”
Vendor: “Harari”
Kristi: “Fine, asante, you?” (then usually it’d downshift totally to English or nonverbal gestures)

:) Spending a few extra days here and then on to Arusha in northern TZ border with Kenya. But Zanzibar...it's so nice...hmmm, maybe a few MORE days of beach time is a good idea... Yes....lovely lovely Zanzibbbbaaaaar.

Tanzania

TRAIN TO DAR

We spent a night in Lusaka (a surprisingly really nice capital city - chill even) and then a bus north to catch the Tazara train from Kapiri Mposhi (north of Lusaka, Zambia) to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. The train was...shall we say...an advenure! We heard a tip to purchase a whole train cabin (versus buying one seat and sharing a cabin with other strangers) and ...since this is a 48+ journey, we though having some space was a good idea. Turns out it was a very very very good investment! Our cabin had 6 bunks in it (second class) but it was just enough room for Charles and I to feel comfortable. (I cannot imagine 6 people in this space.) Check out the video below of how bouncy and shaky the train was - insane! The train stopped about 20 times for villagers to sell foods and drinks. (Corn, samosas, drinks, suspect chicken and other non-identifiable things). We had a great time though and met some cool people - a cool adventure!

49 hours later we were in the coastal city of Dar Es Salaam. Crazy insane train station, crazy insane non-moving traffic and a crazy insane taxi driver. Beer thirty. Awesome outdoor sidewalk BBQ (next to the hotel) with ammmaaaazing BBQ and indian curry. We are in the land of spice...yes!






Sunday, August 7, 2011

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

VICTORIA FALLS

From Kasane/Chobe, Botswana, we got a 1+hr transfer to Vic Falls through the Botswana-Zimbabwe border. Vic Falls - the town - is in Zimbabwe (although there is a lot of lodges on the Zambian side as well in response the to economic situation in Zimbabwe.) Zimbabwe...never thought we'd be here... Clearly Vic Fall was a once-thriving and now-struggling place. The economy has recently been 'dollarized' due to insane inflation ... it was pretty strange seeing the old dilapidated dollars on the street. People were pretty aggressively trying to sell us information, crafts, old Zimbabwe money, anything. We bought a few trillion and billion dollars notes for a few bucks. OK...and some bracelets too, sure. We ended up camping at the "rest camp" in town. Surprisingly nice, quiet and calm and within walking distance of restaurants, town stuff and Vic Falls/park. We could hear the falls from the camp - pretty cool.

When we first arrived, we walked the gauntlet (past guys selling stuff) across the Zim/Zam border bridge to see one part of the Falls. Awesome site! We watched some bungee jumpers from the border bridge, saw a dozen tourist helicopters, safari trucks...lots of tourism (but it seems for only a few outfits).
We went inside the Vic Falls National Park and walked the trails overlooking the falls. Amazing amazing amazing views! Surprisingly hot here so the falls spray/drenching on the trail was very nice. Went back to our shady hammocks at camp...sooo glad we brought the camp hammocks!

We're now 11K north of Vic Fall sitting here in a coffee/espresso shop in Livingstone, Zambia. Clearly a much better economy in Zambia - amazingly clear. Grocery stores are 10x more stocked, people are friendly and say hello/offer to help with information. In Zimbabwe we learned to avoid eye contact or say hello for fear of getting hassled every 10 feet to buy carvings or bracelets or old money. They have to work really hard for their money in Zimbabwe. We were a little tired of that scene so coming here to Zambia was a relief. As a visitor, it feels more calm/relaxed in Zambia.

(We're heading to Lusaka tomorrow and onto the express train (46 hours) to Tanzania next...)






Friday, August 5, 2011

Kasane, Botswana - Chobe National Park

HOLY CHOBE!

From Maun, we headed for Kasane - a border town of 4 countries: Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia. Really interesting town – very laid back and touristy with Safari trucks every 5th car. Right on the Chobe River at the edge of a gi-normous national park only accessible by 4x4. Large resort hotels on the Chobe river and then walk 20 feet and tour information shacks, craft displayed on the ground, women carrying babies on their backs – an interesting mix but it seems to work pretty nicely. People are happy and relaxed – a good vibe. The only problem is, we could not find an available 4x4 to go in/out of Chobe on our own. Not one 4x4 for hire - what?! Camp sites inside the park were booked a month in advance (so we camped in town). It’s the busy season and Chobe requires when we don’t have- good planning! (So far, we’ve been winging it, keeping a few days ahead in planning. But Chobe is different – there's a lack of resources like 4x4s and a lot of people wanting to go to the park.

At least we were able to visit the park by boat - the Chobe river is beautiful! We’d heard in Maun to go on a river safari after 3 p.m. because that’s when all the wildlife heads to the river. TRUE - wow! Once on the river, we were stopping every 20 feet to look at crocs, hippos, birds, tons of elephants, several varieties of ungulates, buffalo, giraffe, etc. The whole list below is from a 3-hour boat trip on the Chobe river. You can’t describe it…this safari was some of the most impressive we’ve seen in Africa so far. We were actually seeing elephants (many with young young babies) swim across the river – wow. One young baby elephant (pictured below) was less than 2 weeks old. The guide said you can tell the baby’s age because he was bending all the way down to use his mouth to drink water – he hadn’t learned to use his trunk yet. (Awwwww!) We watched the mama, baby and (probably) an older sibling intermittently for an hour as they walked on the river bank and finally swam across – helping ferry the baby across to the other side. Meanwhile, we were getting amazing close up views of hippos, crocs and a ton of birds. Seriously – a must do if you’re in this part of the world.


















Now, we’re on to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe for couple days, then more of the falls and the upper Zambezi River from the Zambia side…and eventually making our way north to catch a 40+ hour train ride which starts north of Lusaka going straight to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. Cool!

CHOBE BIRDS

Reed Cormorant
Darter
Goliath Heron
Grey Heron
Yellow-billed Egret
Little Egret
Cattle Egret
Great White Egret
Squacco Heron
Blackcrowned Night Heron
Black Stork
Yellowbilled Stork
Marabou Stork
Saddlebilled Stork
Openbilled Stork
African Spoonbill
Sacred Ibis
Spurwinged Goose
Egyptian Goose
Redbilled Teal
Whiteheaded Vulture
African Fish Eagle
Helmeted Guineafowl
African Jacana
Redwinged Stilt
Crowned Plover
Blacksmith Plover
Common Sandpiper
Greyheaded Gull
Meyer’s Parrot
Grey Lourie
Pied Kingfisher
African Skimmer (nesting)
Whitefronted Bee-eater
Carmine Bee-eater
Swallowtailed bea-eater
Grey Hornbill
Redbilled Hornbill
European Swallow
Forktailed Drongo
Blackeyed Bulbul
Yellowbellied Bulbul
Heuglin’s Robin
Orangebreasted Bush Shrike
Glossy Starling
Black Sunbird
Whitebellied Sunbird
Swamp Boubou

OTHER CHOBE WILDLIFE

Bushbuck
Water Monitor
Nile Crocodile
Vervent Monkies
Baboons
Giraffes
Elephants
Hippos
Warthogs
Impalas
Kudus
Buffalos
Waterbucks
Red Lechwes
Sable Antelope